Home Vegetable Gardening - Week 4

Most of the information presented here comes from Extension Publications, mainly WSU, but also from Oregon State University and University of Idaho Extension publications.  References are given throughout text and at the end.

A couple more things from last time:

Direct seeding - Keep seeds moist.  For shallow seeding (carrots) try covering with a board.

Seed tapes - Use a toothpick and white glue (or cornstarch) to place seeds at proper spacing onto strips of paper.  Allow to dry, roll up and place in garden.

Pre-germination -  Germinate seeds between layers of moist paper towels.  Put seeds into soil when radicals emerge.  Don’t let them get too big!  Always keep moist.

Transplants and Hardening Off

•       Plants started indoors should be acclimated to the outdoors for 7-10 days prior to transplanting. 

•       While still indoors, reduce water but do not allow to wilt.  Move to cooler location.

•       Set outdoors for short periods in shade, gradually longer time & more direct sun.

•       Do not transplant on windy or very cold days. Evenings or cloudy days best.

•       Provide protection from cold, wind, or hot sun for a couple of days.

This week:

Weeding
Composting
Watering
Extending the Season
Raised Beds
Cover Crops

Composting
WSU Extension Publication EB1784E
Let it Rot (Storey Publishing)

•       “Hot” composting vs. “Cold” composting

–      Hot = Active

–      Faster

–      Can kill weed seeds & pathogens

–      Cold – slow decay.

•       Vermicomposting (worms) FSA6032 (U Arkansas)

Hot Composting

•       Success depends on materials (C:N)

•       “Brown” materials for bulking

•       “Green” materials for energy

•       Air

•       Moisture

•       Microorganisms are usually present in raw materials.

•       Critical mass needed to keep reaction going.

Tips for Successful Composting

•       A mixture of one part energy source with two parts bulking agent (by volume) usually gives a reasonable mix for rapid composting.

•       Smaller particles = more surface area

•       Layering or mixing?

•       Add new material into the center.

•       Larger piles heat better, dry out more slowly.

•       Should be moist, but not soaking wet.

•       Aerate for oxygen: turn over.

•       Additional fertilizer?

Bin or pile?

Consider ease of access.

Bins are neater.

Are varmints a problem?

Do you need a cover to manage moisture?

IrrigationWSU Extension publications  EB0422, EB1090
See also Sustainable Gardening, “Vegetable Gardening”

•       Adequate moisture is essential for plant growth.

–      Drainage is important, too!

–      Dig into the soil where roots are feeding

–      If soil holds firmly together when pressed, there is enough moisture.

–      If soil crumbles easily, it is too dry.

–      Vegetables need ~1” water per week (depending on weather and growth stage.)

–      Keep seed beds moist until seedlings are established.

–      Early stage, while plants getting established, avoid wilting!

–      During hot, dry weather, more water may be needed.

–      Frequent, light watering promotes shallow rooting

–      Water to a depth of 5 – 6” or to root depth.

–      Average garden soil holds 2 – 4” of water per foot of depth.

Watering Methods

•       Overhead watering (hand-held or sprinkler)

•       “Hand” watering (hose, watering can)

•       Soaker hoses, sprinkler hoses

•       Drip irrigation (with a timer!)

Tips for Success

•       Water slowly to prevent run off (avoid creating puddles).

•       Direct water where it is desired.

–      Avoid watering weeds!

•       If leaves are getting wet (overhead sprinklers), water early in the day.

•       Mulch walkways

•       With soaker hoses or drip irrigation, note that water does not travel far horizontally.

A note about mulching…

•       Mulches can help retain soil moisture by slowing evaporation from soil.  They can also insulate the soil from sunlight.

•       Can help with weeds.

•       Can keep soil cool.  Allow soil to warm before applying mulches.

•       Dark colored mulches will absorb heat, light colored ones will reflect it.

•       Adds organic matter to soils

•       Woody mulches can tie up soil nitrogen if mixed into soil.

•       Grass clippings, compost, wood chips

•       “Permanent” mulches – plastic sheeting.

Extending the Season

Short Season Vegetable Gardening (PNW 0497)
Propagating Plants from Seed (PNW0170)
Four-Season Harvest, Eliot Coleman

Our average frost-free season extends from around May 15 – October 15 (~120 days, sometimes less)

Our soil can be cold and wet in the spring, and plants can get off to a slow start.

Frosts can come too early for tomatoes on the vine.

Become a weather watcher

http://weather.wsu.edu/

NOAA National Weather Service  (http://www.weather.gov/)

Making the most of our season

•       Choose the warmest spot possible for your garden

•       Prepare the soil carefully

•       Warm the soil early

•       Supply adequate nutrients

•       Choose the right crops

•       Start plants indoors or purchase healthy starts

•       Soak or pre-germinate seeds

•       Use mulch after soil has warmed

•       Use covers or screens to protect plants

Choosing your site

•       Southern exposure, good air drainage, sheltered from wind

–      Wind removes heat radiated from soil, dries out plants, lowers humidity (which can serve as a heat sink around plants)

•       Take advantage of buildings, walls, or fences

–      As windbreaks

–      South-facing side will reflect light/heat

•       Avoid low-lying areas where cold air accumulates

Soil Preparation – always important!

•       Wet soil is slow to warm in spring.

•       Wet soil should not be worked.

•       Addition of organic matter will loosen heavy soils

–      Multiple year process.  Working soil in fall is helpful for earlier spring planting.

•       Raised beds will dry out and warm faster in spring.

–      Try to give a little south-facing slope to your beds